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Capturing the perfect wave
Эта книга, подобно капсуле времени, переносит нас назад,
в эпоху которая продолжает напоминать нам о себе отпечатками Technicolor
и черно-белыми фотографиями.
Book Review, Los Angeles
В наше время, когда серфинг популярен более, чем когда либо, стоит оглянуться
назад, в те годы, когда вид спорта стал мэйнстримом. Развитый жителями
Гаваев более пяти веков назад, серфинг достиг пика популярности в 1950-х,
распространившись по Америке и миру подобно шторму. Серфинг стал не только
спортом, но стилем жизни и сопровождающая его культура распространилась
по всему земному шару. Один из ключевых имидж-мейкеров того времени LeRoy
Grannis, занимавшияся серфингом с 1931, начал снимать сцены на Гаваях
и в Калифорнии в эпоху длинных досок начала 1960.
Grannis прикрепил водонепроницаемый бокс, позволяющий менять пленку в
воде на свою доску и потому оказался ближе к месту действия, чем прочие
фотографы того времени.
Ограниченный коллекционный тираж этого издания, пронумерованный и подписанный
LeRoy Grannis , был распродан в рекордно короткие сроки по цене 750$,
после чего отдельные экземпляры книги продавались по цене в 2 раза превышавшей
цену издательства.
"The book has the effect of a time capsule, bringing
back an era that continues to resonate for us in shades of Technicolor
and black and white." - Los Angeles Times Book Review, Los Angeles
At a time when surfing is more popular than ever, it`s fitting to look
back at the years that brought the sport into the mainstream. Developed
by Hawaiian islanders over five centuries ago, surfing began to peak on
the mainland in the 1950s, taking America—and the world—by storm. Surfing
became not just a sport, but a way of life, and the culture that surrounded
it was admired and exported across the globe. One of the key image-makers
from that period is LeRoy Grannis, a surfer since 1931, who began photographing
the scene in California and Hawaii in the longboard Gidget era of the
early 1960s.
This collection, drawn from Grannis`s personal archives, showcases an
impressive selection of surf photographs—from the bliss of catching the
perfect wave at San Onofre to dramatic wipeouts at Oahu`s famed North
Shore. An innovator in the field, Grannis suction-cupped a waterproof
box to his board, enabling him to change film in the water and stay closer
to the action than other photographers of the time. Equally notable is
his work covering an emerging surf lifestyle, from "surfer stomps"
and hoards of fans at surf contests to board-laden woody station wagons
along the Pacific Coast Highway. It is in these iconic images that a sport
still in its adolescence embodied the free-spirited nature of an era—a
time before shortboards and celebrity endorsements, when surfing was at
its bronzed best.
This unlimited popular edition is for readers on a budget or who were
unable to get their hands on the original limited Collector's Edition
(it sold out in record time and copies were being resold for up to double
of the retail price!)
About the author:
Over the past decade working as Surfer magazine`s globe-roaming editor
at large, photojournalist Steve Barilotti has made it his business to
document the sport, art, and lore of surfing. A lifelong surfer and fourth-generation
Californian, Barilotti's passion for West Coast beach culture runs deep.
His writing has also appeared in The Perfect Day and the books of renowned
surf photographers Art Brewer and Ted Grambeau. Between trips, Steve lives
in San Diego, California.
About the editor:
Jim Heimann is Executive Editor for TASCHEN America in Los Angeles and
the author of numerous books on architecture, popular culture, and Hollywood
history.
About the photographer:
"LeRoy Grannis’s initial foray into surfing began at age 14 with
a six-foot slab of pine, but it wasn’t until the age of 42 that he picked
up a camera and made a career out of it. Under doctor’s orders to take
up a hobby, Grannis built a darkroom in his garage and began shooting
surfers at Hermosa Beach, selling prints for a buck apiece. His photos
soon started appearing in many of the burgeoning surf magazines, and ""Photo:
Grannis"" quickly became a hallmark of the California surf scene
of the 1960s. Grannis is considered one of the most important documentarians
of the sport, and was inducted into the Surfing Hall of Fame in 1966."
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